Fitting that London was the setting for the inaugural interview of The Long Haul Project, considering it’s where Tom and I met. It’s full of nostalgia for us. A memory lurks around every corner. When we weren’t quizzing Beth and Ben about their trans-continental love affair, we re-visited old haunts where our own story started (and checked out one or two new spots, as well). I’ve dubbed our London journey “Parks, Pubs and Polar Bears”. If you want to do London Long Haul style, check out a few of these places:
Parks:
A ramble on Hampstead Heath was one of my “musts”. Green Park is grander, Hyde Park feels regal, Regent’s Park more manicured. But I love Hampstead Heath. It’s vast and wild and hilly, and in May so lush and green and densely wooded that it’s easy to forget you’re in a city of 10 million. My favorite bit is Parliament Hill, with its moody views over London and population of determined kite-flyers. If you want further adventure, exit via Parliament Fields and wander up Swain’s Lane to take in the gothic, crumbling grandeur of nearby Highgate Cemetery. On the way, stop for coffee and cake at Café Mozart
Tom in Soho Square, London
On the other side of the “park spectrum” is Soho Square, which is lovable in spite of being cramped and dingy, with threadbare patches of grass and more cement than greenery. Compete with pigeons and derelicts for a coveted bench and crack open a bottle of wine—this isn’t the kind of park to visit for exercise, but it’s perfect for a liquid picnic and people-watching. This is where Soho’s finest citizens mingle—trannies and prostitutes mix with media luvvies and small-time TV stars. When your bottle of wine runs dry, wander down to Old Compton Street for dinner at Balans which is boisterous, buzzy and more than a bit bi-curious. The food is great (order the bread basket now!) and you’re likely to find a new GBF among the waiters and bartenders.
Pubs
When the vibe at Balans gets too South Beach, the perfect antidote is just around the corner at French House on Frith Street. If you want an “only in Europe” setting, you’ll discover it in this cramped little drinking den where cell phones are banned, beer only comes by the half pint and the bartenders are straight out of a Truffaut film.
The Old Crown is where I decided to book our “we’re back in London” party, in spite of not having been there for many years. Not sure why, as good pubs are hard to find in Central London and this one strikes a nice balance between modern elegance and classic boozer—and stays open until 3am on the weekend which still makes it a rarity in a city that, unlike New York, often sleeps.
The Flask, Highgate, London
We headed back to North London and our old neighbo(u)rhood to hit up our favo(u)rite London pub, The Flask, which is nestled in Highgate Village and well worth a trek up the Northern Line. The Flask has been in this spot since the 1600s, when it was a guest house for travelers on the road to London and much of the décor looks like it might date back to that period (in a charming way). The Flask is that rare pub that is perfect no matter what the weather: In winter and on rainy days (there are a few of those in London), curl up in one of the dark, hidden, cavernous corners inside the pub. If the sun does break through (don’t hold your breath) The Flask’s beer garden is a heavenly place to enjoy a pint or some Pimms. In fact, there are a number of covered tables and plenty of heat lamps if you want to brave the garden during inclement weather (and I’m telling you people, you will get some).
You’ll notice a significant North London bias developing here. While we admit there are lovely places in South, East and West London, we didn’t get to any of them on this particular trip.
Charcuterie plate at The Old White Bear- Yum!
Instead, we rambled around Hampstead ogling the multi-million pound real estate and searching for a hidden gem of a pub called The Old White Bear (one of two polar bear references on this trip, see below). It’s off the beaten path, but worth the trek if you want to experience the very definition of a gastropub: shabby chic décor and a European-influenced menu with dishes that appear almost too beautiful to eat (though that didn’t ultimately stop us). Not the spot to go for fish, chips and a pint. We had Trebbiano, charcuterie and cheese, darling. Yum!
Polar bears
Here’s the second polar bear mention: we saw a play called Polar Bears at The Donmar Warehouse in Covent Garden, which is a teensy tinsy, eensy weensy gem of a theater which attracts famous actors in inverse proportion to its size (i.e., lots of famous actors perform here). We caught the first night of the first play by Mark Haddon, the author of The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night. It explored the complex marriage of a man and his mentally ill wife. Ah, a perfect play for our marriage theme although this one ends in murder so perhaps we should be cautious how many lessons we take from it.
That’s actually the only other “polar bear” reference we came across, but here are a few other items for your London To Do list:
To stay: The St Martin’s Lane Hotel is modern, minimalist, full of B-list celebs, way over what we should have been spending. But worth it if you’re treating yourself, like we were.
To look at art: The Tate. We usually go Tate Modern but this time we went old school at Tate Britain because we wanted to see the Chris Ofili show. It was interesting to see how he’s progressed since winning the Turner Prize back in 1998 (I thought it was “a few years ago” that he won, turns out it’s more than a decade. Sigh, getting old). We didn’t do the Turners and Constables, though I hear they’re quite good too.
To drink (not at a pub): Freud, an underground hideaway off Neal Street in Covent Garden. Descend the industrial metal steps into a room full of improbably stylish people, outrageously loud rock music and potently strong cocktails.
To eat something different: Beth and Ben took us to Guanabana, a BYO restaurant in Kentish Town that serves delicious food with a Caribbean twist. The place had a great vibe, spoiled only slightly by the loud Lionel Richie and Gloria Estefan soundtrack blaring (improbably) from the speakers. Otherwise, a real gem.
To walk or run: Along the South Bank of the Thames. We chose to run early on Friday morning. It was cold. Next time, we’ll walk and stop off at Borough Market for breakfast sausages.
